Mt. Egmont & Tongariro National Parks

Beautiful tree and fern lined road into the Egmont National Park Visitor Centre. There was a dramatic change when entering the park boundaries. Outside the land had been cleared for farming and at the park boundary we seemed to enter a whole new world.

The day after arriving back on the North Island, we continued on the Surf Highway around the west coast to see the Cape Egmont lighthouse and Mt. Egmont National Park. We easily found the lighthouse and even found another one that had been recently built by a boat club (although we don’t count this as a ‘true’ lighthouse). On the way we saw some more historic water towers and drove by the Elvis Presley museum in Hawera (but it was closed and we did not get to see the large collection of memorabilia in, of all places, here in New Zealand).

In Ingelwood we enjoyed seeing numerous toys in the Fun-Ho Toy Museum. This toy company made little metal toy cars, tractors, trains, etc. They were originally made with lead and later aluminum and hand painted. Evidently, they were quite popular herein New Zealand and the company at its prime employed 200 people. Now it is down to 1 person who still makes toys out of the original moulds for special orders. Another unusual stop was in Stratford to see Romero and Juliet perform in the glockenspiel in the clock tower (the only glockenspiel here in New Zealand).

After visiting 2 visitor centres in Egmont National Park, we drove on one of those less traveled roads (the Forgotten World Highway from Stratford to Taumaruni). It was wonderful to travel along with almost no traffic on the very winding and very hilly road with 4 saddles to cross. In addition, there were just a few little communities and there was no fuel for the entire way (153 kilometers (95 miles). We even passed thru the Republic of Whangamomona and got a passport at the small hotel so that we could ‘safely pass thru’ the area. Back in 1890’s, the government wanted to move the community on the map from 1 district to another. Since the local people felt attached to their district, they protested by declaring that they were an independent republic. Even though the ‘Republic’ never really formed, they still have fun each year and celebrate their ‘independence’ day.

Last night we camped in the Tongariro National Park and were lulled to sleep by the sound of a stream flowing by. It was cooler than most nights since the camp was over 1,100 meters (3,500 ft. high). The camp was close by the semi-active volcano Mt. Ruapehu (the tallest mountain on the North Island) and just before nightfall, the skies cleared a little and we were able to get a glimpse of the top.

Mt. Taranaki (Mt. Egmont) – a dormant volcano which last erupted in 1775. Sir Edmund Hillary (the 1st one to climb Mt. Everest) climbed this mountain many times in his younger days. We were lucky to see the top because it was hidden with clouds except for a few minutes during the 2 days that we were there.

Cape Egmont Lighthouse with the local bulls wondering what we saw so fascinating about a lighthouse.

The standard method to deliver mail in residential areas is by bicycle. This seems to be such a great way to be eco-friendly – uses less fuel, no parking problems, no traffic jams, etc.). It is also a great way to keep in shape, since many of the cities are quite hilly.

Back to the North Island

One of the beautiful serene coastline views along on a South Island highway

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After leaving Christchurch, we drove along the upper eastern coastline of the South Island to Picton (where the ferry terminal is). Part of the drive is called the 'lonely road' since it follows along a winding rocky coastline and there are no towns along the way. It may be a ‘lonely’ drive but we saw seals resting on rocks, surfers riding the waves, and lots of birdlife. In Kiakoura, we thought about going out on a boat trip to see the sperm whales, but the winds were up and the

trip would have been rough. So, we not only saved some money in not going, but also did not get seasick. Maybe we can see the whales some other time.

We had mixed feelings as we were preparing to leave the South Island with so many great memories of:
· Numerous birds (including the fascinating yellow eyed and blue penguins)
· Glaciers
· Beautiful green rainforests
· Great coastlines
· Stewart Island (off the southern coast of the South Island)
· The bustling city life in Dunedin and Christchurch
· The Trans Alpine train ride from Christchurch across the Southern Alps to Greymouth on the west coast and back, and
· Millions of sheep in their paddocks

Today we showed up at the ferry in the morning only to find out that our reservation was not in their system correctly and the ferry was full. Fortunately, we could get on the next sailing in 4 hours. This turned out to be a good thing since the drizzle and fog lifted in the afternoon and we were on the nicest boat in the ferry fleet. We were also able to see an additional lighthouse in the distance (which we surely would have missed on the morning crossing). After a relatively smooth journey we landed in Wellington in late afternoon and started the drive up the western coastline of the North Island on our way eventually ending up inAuckland.

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One of the many groups of bagpipers in their colorful tartans practicing for competiton in a Christchurch park.

<- Cattle Guard highway sign


Railroad Warning highway sign ->

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Rocky coastline along the ‘lonely road' between Kiakoura and Picton.

Sometimes the path to take a photo of a lighthouse requires a little work to get there. The directions to get to the Cape Campbell lighthouse said that it was a ‘short walk’ along the beach (if the tides were right). Well, I tried to go there at high tide and these are the rocks that I had to climb over to get there. Even after getting past these it was a long walk just to get a good view. Still couldn’t get all the way to the lighthouse, but did get a good photo.

Christchurch

Cathedral in Christchurch with the beautiful millennium sculpture named “Chalice”.

After driving out to Akaroa (a city out on the Banks Peninsula that was created by 2 volcanoes) and seeing the lighthouse there, we headed to Godley Head for another lighthouse. This was one of those ‘difficult’ ones to get to. After driving on a very narrow twisting and hilly road for about 5 miles, we came to a parking lot. Then, after a tramp down a steep hill, the lighthouse could be seen on a ledge in the side of a cliff. Couldn’t get all the way to it, but found a place to see it pretty well. After tramping back to the campervan, we managed to make it back on the narrow road and into Christchurch (the 2nd largest city in New Zealand with 350,000 people).

One of the main attractions in Christchurch is the International Antarctic Centre. This is the main departure point for Antarctic activities and the visitor centre is very educational with:
· A very cold room with snow and wind to simulate what it is like being there
· A great movie with scenes from the Antarctic
· A rehabilitation centre for blue penguins (this was the big crowd pleaser)
· Displays of equipment used and what it is like living in Antarctica

The next day was a beautiful day and we boarded the Tranz Alpine train for a trip thru the Canterbury plain, up and over Arthur’s Pass in the Southern Alps down to the west coast city of Greymouth. Because the tracks were being repaired, we rode on coaches (buses) from Arthur’s Pass down to Greymouth. It turned out that this was bonus, since we got to go up and over the beautiful pass instead of going thru a long tunnel on the train. After spending an hour in Greymouth, we boarded the coaches for the return trip to Arthur’s Pass and the train ride back to Christchurch. The scenery was great and the ride was smooth, but the day was long and tiring.

Today we took the city bus into the city centre of Christchurch and rode the downtown tram and walked to see the Cathedral, art museum, Canterbury Museum, Arts Centre, and a quilt shop. We were fortunate to be in the cathedral when different singing groups were singing Christmas songs a cappella. One of the groups was the silver medalist in the world barbershop quartet completion and they were outstanding. All of the songs sounded very familiar and it seemed a little out of place for them to be singing ‘Walking in a Winter Wonderland’ when it is almost summer here. We also got to see Father Christmas (Santa Claus) riding into town in a horse-drawn carriage.

One of the gorges seen on the roundtrip Tranz Alpine train ride from Christchurch to Greymouth and back.

Pania, one of the rescued blue penguins [with a damaged beak] that we saw at the International Antarctic Centre in Christchurch. We could take photos here (not like in our previous update).

The Akaroa lighthouse – in Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula southeast of Christchurch.

Australian Crested Grebes – It was fascinating to watch them do their mating dance with both birds bobbing & twisting their heads & the male fluffing his head feathers to impress his lady.

Albatross & Blue Penguins

The unusual Moeraki Boulders along the seashore. These round rocks are septarian concretions which have been exposed from mudstone enclosing them by erosion. Local Morai legend is that these are the remains of eel baskets washed ashore after a large canoe wreck.


We have been heading up the east coast of the South Island during the last 3 days and have almost reached Christchurch (the largest city on the South Island). The weather the first 2 days was probably the worst we have experienced so far – fog, drizzle, hail, and rain – but today was a beautiful day as the sun came out and brightened everything.

Two days ago we started out by visiting the Royal Albatross Centre at the end of Otago Peninsula. From an enclosed viewing area we were able to see 3 or 4 of these great birds sitting on nests and 2 more soaring thru the air. We then drove to Oamaru and at dusk we were mesmerized watching over 200 small rare blue penguins come ashore for the night. What a great sight to watch them make their way from shore to their nest and waiting mate with their 2 hungry chicks demanding to be fed (at times almost pushing over the adult with the food).

Today we traveled over the flattest place in New Zealand and then back into mountains before reaching Akaroa southeast of Christchurch. We continue to see what seem like millions of sheep. At one time there were over 70 million of them here, but there are fewer now since many farmers have switched to the more profitable dairy cows

Along the way we, or course, managed to stop at 2 quilt shops and see 3 lighthouses (one which required a kilometer hike along the coast to reach it), plus see the largest jersey (sweater) in the world.

One additional note: It is pleasant to be in smoke free holday/motor camps since it seems that people can go camping here without feeling it necessary to build a fire.

A royal albatross sitting on the nest. The albatross is a very large bird (about 10 ft. wingspan) and spend most of their time circumventing the southern seas coming on land only to breed and raise their young every 2 years. After leaving the nest they fly 5 or 6 years without ever landing on land and start breeding after about 8 years.

Blue penguins. These small penguins (only 10-12 inches high) leave their mate about 4:30 in the morning and swim out about 10-15 kilometers and fish all day. They then return when it is almost dark since they feel safer then). This is a photo of a picture since they did not permit any photography at the viewing site. Photo by Len Doel.

Blue Penguin Crossing sign – We had to watch as we drove away from the viewing site since some late arriving penguins crossed the road in front of us.

Royal Spoonbill. With their spoon-shaped bills food is located by touch, so they can feed at night. They move forward sweeping with their bills to trap small fish, insects, crustaceans etc.

Yellow Eyed Penguins

Yellow Eyed Penguins cooling off after a day of fishing (photo taken from a blind on a nature preserve). They are the 3rd largest penguin, there are only 7,000 of them in the world, and they only live on the shores of New Zealand’s South & Stewart Islands + some small Pacific Islands south of there. They live in one place all year and go out each day to catch fish & return in the late afternoon. They raise their young in a shady sheltered grassy area (not like in the movies where those penguins stand on the ice keeping the egg warm between their feet). Also, these penguins do not congregate in large groups but stay in separate places as pairs. One disturbing note is that only 25% of the chicks lived this year (it is speculated that it may be too warm this year for them – maybe “global warming”?).

We have been keeping busy the last 3 days traveling from the far south up around thru the Catlins (“where the forests meet the sea”), and into Dundein. Here are some of the high and low lights:

• Saw 2 great lighthouses - at Waipap Point and Nugget Point
• Enjoyed watching sea lions interact on the beach at Waipapa Point
• Had to leave instructions with our friends in Invercargill to forward our mail to Auckland. The mail did not make it from the USA in 10 days (hopefully it will catch up with us before we leave New Zealand).
• Saw 3 waterfalls - one of them called Niagara Falls as a joke (it was so small that it looked more like rapids).
• Had to really clean up the dust that accumulated in the campervan as we drove many miles on dusty gravel roads to get to the lighthouses.
• Walked in the Octagon area (the center of town shaped with 8 sides) in Dunedin (a medium sized city on the South Island). Quite a busy place on a Saturday with locals + many tourists.
• Of course, Cathy visited the quilt shops in town.
• While taking a break and reading the newspaper in a McDonald’s McCafe, we heard bagpipes coming down the street. Dunedin is a college town & one of the traditions here is that college graduates parade thru town in their caps & gowns lead by bagpipers & drums. It was great to see so many really happy faces pass by.
• Visited the beautiful train station that was built in the late 1800’s.
• Attended church in the very large & beautiful First Presbyterian Church (built in 1873). It happened to be St. Andrews day and many people wore their Scottish clan plaids. After church we talked with a delightful 94 year old lady that told us about her interesting life living in this area.
• Toured Larnach Castle built by a banker in the late 1800’s. This is the only castle in New Zealand and after many years of neglect has been restored. The most interesting thing to us was the beautiful furniture which had been made out of many of the native trees here.
• Visited Penguin Place to see the yellow eyed penguins. This is a non-profit preserve supported only by tours and donations.
• Endured a couple of days of blustery weather (windy, overcast, some light rain, and quite cool.
• Reached the ½ way point of our ‘holiday’ below the equator in New Zealand & then in Australia.

Sea lions on the beach. Two of them in front are arguing and the large one on the right is rapidly coming in from the sea to settle it. He then came up and pushed and shoved one of them (who left the area and sulked for a while).

Nugget Point lighthouse situated on a ridge. It is so windy here that the lightkeepers sometimes had to crawl along the ridge to reach the lighthouse.

Larnach castle (photo taken from a trellis covered by laburnum [with yellow flowers] in the garden area).

Penguins preening each other after the day’s swim for food.

Stewart Island

Signpost at Sterling Point - the southern end of Hwy 1 on the South Island.

Happy Thanksgiving to our friends and family back home. Since the Pilgrims did not make a side trip to New Zealand, Thanksgiving is not celebrated here and we did not get our traditional turkey dinner. Even though we missed the dinner we are still very thankful for being in and enjoying such a beautiful place here.

We spent a couple of days taking it easy for a change. One evening we enjoyed supper and conversation with some friends from Texas that are here on a 6-month work assignment. It was also time to replenish our food supply and get a routine blood test done (fortunately this was made very easy since our friend is a doctor and could write the request for lab work). It was also enjoyable to be able to go thru the museum here in a more relaxed mode. Cathy, of course, had to visit the local quilt shop.

Last evening we drove down to Bluff for the night. This is the most southern town on the South Island and we have now made it from the start of Hwy 1 at the very northern tip of the North Island down to the end here on the South Island.

One of our goals has been to visit Stewart Island – the 3rd largest island in New Zealand which is an hour ferry ride south from Bluff. Rakiura National Park takes up 85% of the island and 400 residents live in and around the small community of Oban (also known as Halfmoon Bay). There are less than 30 kilometers (18 miles) of roads on the island and most of the national park is a huge wilderness area with no tracks (trails) in most of it.

Today , we fulfilled our goal with a very full day to the island. We started out with a 1 hour catamaran ferry ride across Foveaux Strait from Bluff to Stewart Island on very rough seas (so rough that Cathy got seasick and Jan got a headache). After arriving on the island, we took it easy in the visitor centers and then enjoyed a light lunch in the “southernmost” café in New Zealand. At 1 o’clock ,we rode on a boat to Ulva Island (a small island in the national park) that has been set aside and restored back to its natural state. Major efforts have been made to rid the island of introduced animals (rats, possums, deer etc.) that harm birds and the vegetation. What a treat to be able to enjoy the bird calls and walk thru the lush rain forest with our guide pointing out numerous trees and plants that are unique to this area. After a driving tour of the community and supper we came back to Bluff on the ferry (much better ride back) and drove into Invercargill for the evening.

Harry (a “living fossil”), the Tuatara who is over 120 years old. He is the star in the Tuatarium in the Southland Museum in Invercargill and was brought there from Stephens Island in 1970. The tuatara is not a lizard, but is a separate reptilian species that is descended from the dinosaurs and has not changed significantly over millions of years.

Distinctive historic 1889 red brick Neo-Romanesque industrial designed water tower in Invercargill

Small lady slipper tree orchids

Soaring mollymawk following our ferry back from Stewart Island

Milford Sound

Fiordland Crested Penguins.

Yesterday we drove over the Milford Road from Te Anau to Milford Sound in Fiordland National Park (the largest National Park in New Zealand). The road was so scenic that it took a long time because of the many stops for the view and photos. On the way, we had to wait at the Homer tunnel for about 15 minutes for traffic in the opposite direction. The tunnel is 1,200 m (3,940 ft) long and slopes steeply down to the Milford side. While waiting we enjoyed watching the antics of the Kea bird plus people walking in the snow.

Milford Sound is a true fiord carved out by massive glaciers with sheer mountain walls. The mountains rise up from below the water line so most places there is no shoreline and the cruise boats can go very close to them. On our ride the boat went so close that the waterfalls drenched us (of course we had fun with our raincoats on). Many of the lower mountain sides are covered with lush green plants since this is in a rainforest that gets 8-9 meters (over 300 inches) of rain each year. There are only a couple of permanent waterfalls, but when it rains, dozens of waterfalls appear as if by magic and seem to be everywhere. We did not have any rain on our trip, but it did rain right after we got off the boat and rained all the way back to Te Anau - so we got to experience the mountains covered with larger and ‘new’ waterfalls that we had not seen on the way to Milford.

On our cruise we were able to see seals and penguins and we also visited the Underwater Observatory to see the unusual black coral, red coral, anemones, starfish, and fish that live in the fiord. High rainfall means that there is a 3-4 m (10-13 ft) layer of fresh water above the underlying salt water. We also saw seals and our first penguins on some of the few rocks that line the fiord in places.

Today, we drove the Southern Scenic route into Invercargill on the southern part of the South Island. We passed thru beautiful areas of grazing land and it seemed like thousands of sheep seemed to be everywhere in their paddocks. We also saw some domesticated red deer herds that they raise for their meat and also for the velvet on their antlers (which is used for medicinal purposes). This area is ideal for raising sheep and deer that 4% of the population in New Zealand produces about 20% of the exports from this country.

Water drenched rainforest walls in Milford Sound

Kea – The only alpine parrot in the world. They are very playful, but can also be destructive when they peck away at rubber parts of a car - such as the rubber around the windscreen (windshield).

Peacefully sleeping seal (nicknamed Harry by the cruise boat crew)

Lady Bowen Falls in Milford Sound.